Texas Climbers Coalition is awarded the JEDI Grant from Access Fund

The Texas Climbers Coalition has received $2,500 in grant money from Access Fund’s inaugural JEDI grant. We’re honored to be one of four recipients this year.

The CR Bloom Project, which works under the Black Outside umbrella, uses outdoor exposure as healing spaces for youth of incarcerated parents in San Antonio. They have never had the opportunity to run an outdoor climbing event. We will be using the grant money to facilitate such an opportunity by partnering with two local guiding services to provide a safe outdoor guided climbing experience.

Everyone should have equitable access to the outdoors, and the same goes for climbing. We believe that everyone should have the same opportunity to fall in love with these spaces and feel welcome in them. If 33 new children can experience, for the first time, outdoor climbing in a free crag in the middle of their city, then we are taking one small step to do our part to support JEDI practices in Texas.

Medicine Wall is Now Open to Climbing

The Texas Climbers Coalition (TCC) and Access Fund are pleased to announce the official opening of Medicine Wall in San Antonio to rock climbing. After nearly 20 years without legal access, TCC now owns Medicine Wall, and Access Fund holds a conservation and recreation easement to permanently protect the property for rock climbing.

Medicine Wall is free and open to the public for climbing and other low-impact activities. Medicine Wall was acquired and permanently protected in December 2018, but it remained closed to the public while the City of San Antonio completed the Salado Creek Greenway trail, which provides public access.

“We know how excited and eager San Antonio climbers have been to enjoy Medicine Wall again, and we are thrilled to see the wall finally opened for climbing,” says TCC Executive Director Adam Mitchell.

Medicine Wall was a popular crag for San Antonio climbers for many years. However, in 2015, the previous landowner stripped all bolts from the walls after an accident and began to strictly enforce no-trespassing laws. With few other nearby options for outdoor climbing, San Antonio climbers felt the loss of Medicine Wall acutely.

Then, in 2017, the owners of Medicine Wall—a large development company—broke ground on a residential development project and sought to transfer ownership of Medicine Wall to the city of San Antonio for inclusion in its Salado Creek Greenway trail project. The city did not wish to take on the liability of owning a climbing area, so they reached out to TCC to alert them to the potential opportunity to acquire the property. The owners agreed to convey the property to TCC, provided that Access Fund hold a conservation and recreation easement over the property to protect its conservation and recreation values.

“To acquire and permanently protect a climbing area, and to open it up to the public, is an absolute first for Texas climbing,” says Access Fund Texas Regional Director Brian Tickle.

San Antonio climbers have already started the process of rebolting the nearly 50 routes that were removed five years ago. San Antonio local Matt Markell has been leading the effort, using a donation of fixed hardware from TCC. “Rebolting Medicine Wall provides an exciting opportunity to implement current best practices for fixed-hardware management, which will ensure decades of enjoyment by climbers,” Markell says.

TCC is accepting donations for the acquisition costs, long-term stewardship, and the cost of the conservation and recreation easement. To date, TCC has raised $18,000 toward its goal of $37,000. To donate to TCC for the long-term success of Medicine Wall, visit https://www.texasclimberscoalition.org/medicine-wall.

Access Note Public access to Medicine Wall is provided via the Salado Creek Greenway trail system. Climbers should park only at approved Greenway trailheads and follow all Greenway rules and regulations, including hours of use. For a complete list of rules, visit https://www.texasclimberscoalition.org/medicine-wall.

https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/medicine-wall-in-san-antonio-opens-for-climbing

Prototype Wall

Folks,

Tuesday evening was a pretty sad day because of the loss of some of our area's classic climbing. Fortunately however, there was no loss of life, which in all honesty could have been a real and scary development. I met with the park and began the conversation of what the climbing community can do and what they expect from us. Below are my findings:

prototype.jpg

1: The South side of Reimers Proper is closed for the foreseeable future. All of the climbing and hiking on that side is closed. Yes, Shortcake Wall and other stuff in that area is included. 

2: The damage is unfortunately extensive. Basically, the tops of climbs from Grinch to where 8 Flake was, and then the whole wall is gone all the way to Tree Route on Mai Tai. The rock fall is massive. I know you all want to see the damage, but please respect the closure from the park for now. There are discussions with the park service about doing guided hikes to the area once a week until the area is open.

3: Unfortunately, the memorial boulder and plaque for Trip Lucas are both gone. I'm sure the park service will allow us to replace it since we went through the proper channels the first time. For many who don't know there was a memorial plaque to Trip above Prototype which was one of his favorite areas and climbs.

4: TCC will be doing trail work to re-establish a trail through this area. We think this project will be doable, as there is a natural line through the debris. However we won't be doing this work for some time. There are a few steps that the Travis County Parks folks want before we will be allowed to work or hike below. Please keep an eye out as we send more information about a cool trail project.

5: Finally, a Prototype Wall memorial. We won't be able to do this at Reimers but we will discuss dates and potential locations. 

Thanks everyone for your cooperation.

Adam Mitchell,
Executive Director
Texas Climbers Coalition